26-course 'Sadhya' on plantain leaf is the star of Thiru Onam

Thiruvananthapuram, Sep 5 (IANS) As Kerala celebrates the iconic festival of Onam, all eyes are on the majestic 'Onam Sadhya', a 26-course vegetarian feast that arrives not on porcelain, but on a glossy green plantain leaf.

Shimmering with tradition, this is the star of the day in all homes across Kerala, irrespective of caste, creed or religion. On Thiru Onam, the heart of Kerala beats in unison -- through flowers, rituals, games, and most memorably, through this 'Onam Sadhya'. The Sadhya is no ordinary meal.

It is poetry composed in flavours, colours, and textures, a culinary pageant that unfolds in courses, each dish claiming its place with precision.

The very act of serving is ritualistic, salt at the leaf’s corner, crisp banana chips and sweet sharkara upperi to awaken the palate, followed by pickles that sting and soothe in equal measure.

Then come the dishes in a rhythmic procession, avial with its medley of vegetables bound in coconut, olan mellow with ash gourd and cowpeas, thoran bursting with spice and crunch, pachadi with a sweet-tangy swirl, and erissery, earthy and comforting.

Each is distinct, yet together they harmonise like instruments in an orchestra, creating a balance that is the essence of Kerala’s food philosophy.

Rice is the canvas on which this grand artwork is painted.

The first round of rice is eaten with parippu and a drizzle of ghee, golden and fragrant. The second unfolds with sambar, robust and hearty. The third is rasam, fiery and light, before curd brings calmness to the leaf.

And then comes the climax, the payasam, or rather, payasams.

From the caramel depths of ada pradhaman to the delicate sweetness of palada, these desserts are liquid joy, often served in generous abundance.

What elevates the Sadhya beyond its flavours is its spirit. It is eaten sitting side by side, with no distinctions of rank or wealth, an echo of the Onam legend, when King Mahabali’s reign was marked by equality and prosperity.

Preparing it, too, is an act of community.

Families bustle in kitchens for days, chopping, grinding, and stirring, their laughter and stories blending with the aromas of roasting coconut and simmering jaggery.

On Thiru Onam, as families gather around the spread, the plantain leaf becomes more than a plate; it becomes a canvas of culture, memory, and togetherness.

In every spoonful lies the essence of Kerala’s greatest festival, a feast as timeless as the spirit of Onam itself.

Yet, with changing times, the tradition of families labouring together in the kitchen to prepare the grand Sadhya has become a rarity.

Today, it is caterers and restaurants that shoulder the task, offering the full spread, complete with the plantain leaf, delivered to one’s doorstep at the tap of a mobile screen.

Convenience, however, comes at a price. What was once a lovingly home-cooked feast now ranges anywhere from Rs 250 to as high as Rs 1,000 for a single serving. On the flip side is a plantain leaf on Thiru Onam day costs a record Rs 100.

--IANS

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